The Ultimate New Puppy Checklist

You’ve waited for this moment for quite some time, haven’t you?
Or maybe you’re just checking in to see what would you need if you rescue or buy a pup.

There are looots of products on the market. It can be quite overwhelming when you start researching. And I know that the pressure of buying the best and safest things for your dog is not making it any easier.

That’s why we’ve put together a list that will shed some light on what you need for your pup and your home. Of course, you can expand this list, depending on your preferences, your dog needs, etc.

We hope that this list will help you become 99% prepared for the day when you’ll be welcoming your pup into your home. That 1% is for the unexpected, there’s always something.

So, let’s begin.

1. BASIC STUFF

• Food and Water Bowls

You’ll need 2 bowls, one for water and one for food. When you choose a bowl these are the things you should take into consideration:

• Durability. you need a bowl that could survive your dog’s chewing and some occasional dropping. If it’s a puppy, they’ll go through a chewing phase when teething or as a result of separation anxiety, so you would want to avoid using plastic bowls, which are very easy to tear apart. Stainless steel bowls are a solid choice and will last in time.

• Safety. Both plastic and ceramic bowls can get scratches or cracks, which harbor bacteria and are not safe for your dog. Stainless steel bowls are pretty safe from this perspective. Another safety measure that you could take, no matter your choice, is to keep the bowls clean all the time.

• Dog’s health. Some dogs eat their food extremely fast and there is a risk of bloating, which is quite dangerous for dogs. In this case, you could use slow feeders or as we call them the “maze bowls”. They force the dog to eat their food slower because it’s harder to grab. If you want to prevent further gastrointestinal issues, you could also try raised dog food bowls, also known as elevated feeders. They are placed at the dog’s height and make it more comfortable to have their dinner, especially if we’re talking about a giant dog or pups with a certain medical condition.

• Where will you keep the bowl? If you’re planning to let your dog in the backyard all day long, think of a bowl that could be supplied with water continuously. Or if it’s for just a couple of hours, look for an elevated bowl, so you could keep the bugs and other living things away from your dog’s clean water. Keep in mind that this bowl, being outside, will be exposed to light, sun, heat and other factors that will impact its resistance. Choose a bowl that doesn’t melt or easily develop bacteria.
  
  

• Bed

The couch is always an option. If not for you, for your dog it is for sure. So, the first step would be for you to decide whether you need a bed for your dog at all, especially if you’re planning to share yours.

So let’s say you do want a bed for your dog.
The first thing to consider is size. Although from a dog’s perspective “if it fits, it sits”.



If it’s an adult dog, take a rug, ask your dog to lie down on it and then measure the rug to see the approximate size. If it’s a puppy, search for the recommended dog bed sizes for that particular breed. Your pup might be small now, but they grow up pretty fast.

Make sure the bed you choose is soft, some dogs are predisposed to develop hygroma, which is a fluid-filled swelling that could be caused by lying on hard surfaces such as cement or hardwood floors. Our Golden Retriever had hygroma. We didn’t buy her a bed from the very beginning and we didn’t know she was sensitive to hard surfaces until we noticed the swelling. In case you don’t want to buy a bed in a rush, you can use a cushion or a soft blanket as a great replacement.

If you have a long-haired dog, it’s helpful to have a bed that’s easy to clean. Look for fabrics that can be wiped with a cloth or that can be put in the washing machine. Any bed gets smelly in time, so it’s useful to be able to wash them quickly.

Some dogs are cold-natured and shiver at the slightest change of temperature. In this case, you could try a nesting bed. They will snuggle in it and it will keep them warm.

There are hundreds of bed types out there. My advice to you is to test. It’s a trial and error process here. We’ve tried a few for our dog until we found one that fit her size & preferences but also was good for our apartment.
Also, some dogs like their bed immediately, some tear them apart. Our Golden Retriever has never had this tendency, but I know some dogs do, so don’t order the most expensive stuff out there. And have patience with your pup, it takes time for them to understand that this fluffy thing is their bed. Use positive reinforcement and create positive associations with the bed so it becomes a happy place.

• Pads

Until you can take your pup out, you’ll need pads.

Choose pads that:

• Are super absorbent
• Neutralize odors
• Are comfortable to the dog
• Stick well to the floor, but don't leave traces
• Can host and hold more than one pee

The size doesn't matter, but you could go for the bigger ones, just to have a larger area covered. Just keep in mind your dog might not pee right on the center of the pad. We had big pads, but Luna, our Golden Retriever, still chose to pee on the edge, half on the pad, half on the floor.

So, for the first couple of weeks, stack up with both pads and patience. Praise your dog A LOT when she’s made it to the pad and just ignore the mistakes. Otherwise, it’s confusing to the dog why both situations get so much attention. Gear up with treats for the victories and a good cleaner for the less successful moments.

• Poop Bags

We have this belief that a dog waste bag should be so practical and easy to use that it shouldn’t cause any frustration. In the end, it’s a quick job to pick-up your dog’s poo and you want a tool that shares the same purpose.
Having a dog, we’ve tried a lot of bags out there and only when we got to the right one, we understood that quality does make a difference, yes, even in a dog waste bag. When we created the Smallish dog waste bags we kept these things in mind and made sure we checked all the most important boxes.

So, here are the things we think it’s important to pay attention to when you choose dog poop bags.

1. Size. Dogs are full of surprises so you want to be prepared. Your pup might seem small, but do not underestimate her pooping intentions. Bags that are at least 9 x 13 inches long will do their job great.
2. Thickness.  If you tried a thin bag, you know that it’s a bit too descriptive on its feel. A thick bag protects an important sense in this matter: TOUCH. Look for bags that are 20 microns thick. They give you better protection.
3. Transparency. Usually, bags that are 20 microns thick, are already pretty opaque. But if you’re looking for a full disguise, choose black or dark-colored bags. Otherwise a light pink or light green, won’t quite cover it up. 
4. Scented/ Unscented. This is very subjective. For some people, an added scent, such as lavender, might be overpowering. For others, if they are more sensitive, it might be a great help to cover up the unpleasant smell.
5. How they Open & Tear. A lot of bags rip when you are trying to tear them from the roll. But a high-quality bag will tear easily and will have indications of where to tear it. It will also open at a slight movement of your fingers.
6. Earth Considerate. What we can advise you is to look for the most earth considerate dog waste bag. Whether it contains an EPI Additive, is ASTM 6954-04 compliant, compostable, made from cornstarch, or recycled materials are used for the box and core, choose a bag that is not pure plastic and can degrade in time.
   
   

• Care Products

• Shampoo

Dogs have a different PH from humans. A dog’s skin PH is somewhere between 6.5 to 7.0 (more neutral), whereas humans have it between 4 - 5.5 (more acid).
PH (potential hydrogen) refers to the thin layer coating that covers our skin. If the skin’s PH is balanced, it protects our skin from the bad bacteria and resists infections.
That’s why it’s important to buy a shampoo that keeps the dog’s skin PH balanced. Avoid using human shampoo! A dog’s skin is much more sensitive and it could get it all dry and itchy.

Also, avoid shampoos that contain these harmful substances:

• Synthetic perfume and phthalates
• Artificial colorants: Lake dyes, FD&C colors, carmine
• Any of these: Bromopo /, Diazolidinyl urea / DMDM Hydantoin (DHDH hydantoin) / Imidazolidinyl urea / Quaternium-7, -15, -31, -61 / Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate
• Propylene glycol
• DEA (diethanolamine) (that make shampoo bubbly)
• Triclosan (antibacterial substance)
• Mineral oil and paraffin
• Petrolatum and dimethicone
• Surfactants: SLS/SLES (sodium lauryl sulfate / sodium laureth sulfate), ALS/ALES (ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate)
  
  

• Toothbrush and toothpaste

Dogs need dental care just as much as humans do. After about 6 months your pup will have grown a whole new set of teeth. All the puppy teeth should have fallen out by then and this is when brushing begins.
We suggest you start checking your dog’s mouth from the first days/weeks, just for her to get used to you putting your hand in her mouth and she becoming comfortable with that.
For brushing, you could use a finger brush or a normal dog toothbrush and a special dog toothpaste (never human toothpaste!). It would be good to create a habit out of brushing your dog’s teeth at least 3-4 times a week. Combine it with teething toys and treats, to prevent plaque.
And always check with the vet to see if your dog’s teeth are in good health.

• Grooming

Hair. Your pup will also need hair and nail care. Brush her coat as much as you see needed, according to your dog’s breed, hair length, etc. The brushing helps your dog’s fur stay healthy and shiny, it removes all the dust, dirt and the matted fur as well.
Every breed of dog requires special care, so research what kind of brushes you need for each type of fur.

Nails. If you walk your dog often on hard surfaces they’ll naturally trim their nails. Otherwise, when you hear your dog’s nails click-clacking, it’s time to trim.
You’ll need a special dog nail clipper and a good tutorial. It’s important to understand how to trim them, so they don’t bleed. If they do, styptic powder or cornstarch is a good helper. If you’re too nervous about it, go to the vet and ask for help. No need to hero-up on this, your dog’s wellbeing comes first.

image source: vetbabble

• Gear

You’ll love watching your dog running around, it’s the best kind of happiness. But you’ll still need to keep her on a leash, especially at the beginning, when your pup hasn’t mastered your commands just yet. 

How to choose a collar for your dog?
Measure your puppy’s neck and choose a proper size. A good size will allow you to fit 2 fingers between your dog’s neck and the collar.
Our advice would be to buy something simple at first because dogs grow up fast and you’ll need to change it shortly. There are a lot of options to choose from: leather, nylon, neoprene, biothane. Besides fabric, pay attention to how the collar buckles up. Pick a safe collar, one that:
(1) does not harm your dog or causes discomfort
(2) is not easy for your dog to unbuckle or get out of
(3) It is easy for you to take off if there’s an emergency.

We wouldn’t recommend using chains, shock collars, pinch/prong collars, spray-collars or no-bark collars. There are plenty of other options to positively train and walk your dog. Fear, pain, and discomfort shouldn’t be part of your dog’s time with you.
Some dog breeds don’t quite tolerate collars or are not recommended for them, so you could try a harness. With our Golden Retriever, we use the harness only when we go for a run. But it could be used for a walk as well. Our harness is from Ruffwear and our dog feels very comfortable with it.

How to choose a leash?
Similar to collars, there are many options, it’s up to your personal preference: leather, nylon, neoprene.
There are the simple ones: a rope and the retractable ones.
If you’re still hesitating to let your pup run around freely then a retractable leash could be helpful. She’ll be able to wander around more but kept safe at the same time. We used this one for a little while when our golden was a pup until we gained enough confidence to set her free in the park or elsewhere. But, there are some things to be cautious about with retractable leashes: malfunctions, tangling, pulling, etc.

There’s also the Slip All-in-One Collar and Leash, which can be used when you start training your dog. It’s especially useful when you’re teaching your pup not to pull and walk beside you. We used this with Luna and it was a great help. She walked beside us early on. It works like this: when your dog starts pulling away from you, the leash will pull as well on her neck and she’ll feel a bit of pressure that will correct her behavior. Dogs have a lot of strength in their necks, so pressure helps. But, please, use it carefully and gently. Just a small, short pull it’s enough for them to correct their behavior.

Now we use a collar and a leash from EzyDog. They’re made of nylon, we’ve been using them for about 2 years now and their quality is great. Mud, water, grass, snow - after a wash they still look as good as new. The leash also has Traffic Control, practically a shorter leash part that allows you to keep your dog closer when necessary and make behavior corrections.

Whatever you decide, always make sure you and your pup are both comfortable with the choice.

• Cold/ hot weather clothing

Whether you dress up your dog or not, heavily depends on your dog’s breed. Not all dogs need a sweater or a coat in wintertime. The Siberian Husky or Malamutes have a thick fur that is cold weather appropriate genetically. On the other hand, breeds like Chihuahua or Greyhound, have a short and thin layer of fur which needs extra help when the temperature drops. When you clothe your pup, look for sweaters that cover their neck and belly.

On the other hand, during the summer, the pavement can get very hot. The veterinarian Dr. Karen Becker tells us that you should put your palm on the road and keep it there for up to 7 seconds, if it’s too hot for you then it will be too hot for your dog as well. You can either take a walk when the temperature drops a bit or buy some boots. They can also be useful during wintertime when it’s freezing outside or when there are chemicals or salt that melt the snow.

• Toys

Having a puppy equals having a big chewer in the house. Their teeth hurt at this point. So toys are a big help. With Luna, we’ve used a lot of Kongs and all sorts of teething toys. It helped her relieve the pain and also kept her off biting our legs or chewing the furniture.



Try to avoid stuffed animals, tennis balls, wooden sticks or any other toys that your dog could tear and swallow harmful materials.
Also, observe the way you play with your dog. We once played Tug of War with our Luna just when her teeth were falling out, and one of them came out during our play because the game got too intense. She wasn’t hurt, but we took it easy after that.
Playtime is also a great opportunity to strengthen your relationship with your dog and to create fun memories.

2. CHOOSING A NAME

This might be the hardest thing from this entire list.
Maybe you have a name in mind already, especially if you’ve wanted a dog since forever.
However, if you don’t, I’m sure you have a lot of criteria: not too short, not too long, definitely not a color name, and not Marley, but could be food. Mozzarella? Donut? Bean? Mr. Bean? Sorry, we got carried away.

Make a list and read each one out loud. Think which one you would feel most comfortable yelling in the park. We’re kidding.

Here are some ideas on how to start your search:

• Different origins: Japanese, Russian, Spanish, African roots, etc. Maybe you have a culture that you admire and could get inspired from there.
• Nature: plants, trees, flowers, rivers, mountains, phenomenons. We have a friend who named their labrador Cactus. Genius, right?
• Movies/ cartoons/ anime characters. I’m sure you’ve got your favorite character from some movie: Thor, Naruto, Trinity, Mr. Bean, Princess Leia, and so on.
  
  

Ask a kid for suggestions. Kids are great at brainstorming such ideas, they’re free of any prejudice and they let their imagination run free. It’s so much fun choosing a name. And keep that list, it could be interesting to have a look at it after a couple of years.

 

3. HOUSEPROOFING & PREP

It’s all about how to make your house dog-friendly. This includes both protecting your dog and protecting your belongings. And this is an important point. If you are not prepared to have parts of your home or some things around the house damaged, then maybe you should think about postponing having a dog. Some stuff gets broken, some carpets get peed on, so you need to have patience and understand that it’s a process.

Dogs have chewing stages, anxiety separation issues, instincts. So here are a couple of things you could do to prepare your home for when you welcome your dog into your home.

• It’s basically baby-proofing because you’ll need all the baby-proofing gear.
• Use baby-proofing latches on any closet you wouldn’t want your puppy to get in and “reorganize it”. Put away any cleaning products, detergents, food, sharp objects, medications, cosmetics, clothing that could harm your dog. Lock them up.
• Puppies get curious about colors, textures. Put on higher shelves or inside cabinets objects that you care about and wouldn’t want to be damaged. Yes, including fridge magnets, we’ve been through this one.
• Keep electrical wires away from easy access and block electrical outlets with special plugs.
• Put the shoes away in a safe place, for the sake of both the shoes and your dog’s safety, because laces and buttons are very attractive to these playful pups. Avoid any choking hazard.
• Check your outside fences, if you have a yard and you plan to leave your dog outside. See if there are any holes or areas where some extra digging could let your pup easily run away.
• You could also use baby gates to limit the pup’s access to certain areas of the house if it would be too much trouble putting all those things away. 

The best advice we’ve got about keeping our home intact was to take the dog for a long walk or have a good play session before leaving her at home by herself. If she’s full of energy she’ll find ways to get that energy out, it better be with you than the couch. And remember: a tired (not exhausted) dog is a happy dog.

4. YOUR DOG'S FOOD

Dogs are carnivores, which means they like to hunt their prey and they love raw meat and bones.
Being domesticated, a lot has changed in their behavior and they have adapted well to this new habitat. But what hasn’t changed is their need for moisture when it comes to their food, which the raw food has plenty, but which is missing in kibble.

Dogs need a balanced diet, whether it’s dry food or homemade food, complemented with all sorts of supplements and vitamins, just like for us, humans.
We’ll let you know a couple of things that we’re familiar with on this subject. You could use this as a starting point to dig more into the subject and decide what works best for you and your dog.

If you choose to feed your dog a Balanced Homemade Diet, keep in mind:

• It’s the healthiest option, IF balanced. Giving your dog leftovers from your breakfast and dinner is not an option. Whether it’s cooked or raw, you need to properly ration the meat and vegetables. (75-85 % meat/organs/bones + 15-25 % veggies/fruits)
• Supplements. You’ll probably need to give your dog vitamins and enzymes to complement their food and protect their digestive system. Even if it’s a healthier option, there are still plenty of deficiencies in these ingredients that need to be covered. Always check with your vet.
• It takes time. If you decide to cook it yourself, it takes some planning and some time for shopping and cooking. For Luna, we do it once a week/ 2 weeks. It takes about 2 hours to cook 1-2 weeks' worth of food, which we keep in the freezer. If you don’t have time, but you still want to feed your dog homemade food, there are options now on the market of homemade dog food suppliers that solve the time problem.
• Storage space in the fridge/freezer. You’ll need to empty the drawer or shelf in your fridge to keep the food. If it’s a big dog, it will require some more space.
• Expensive? Not necessarily, I’ve written below as well that it’s not necessarily more expensive than kibble or cans. If you buy your ingredients in bigger quantities, both for the humans in your family and your dog, it could be even cheaper than dry food.

!!! Always, always check with the vet! It’s so important! Talk to your vet and check regularly your dog’s health to see what you need to improve, add or remove from your dog’s diet.

If you choose Commercial Food, keep in mind:

• It’s easy. You just order once in a while, depending on your dog’s breed, size, weight, etc.
• It’s fast. It doesn’t consume time, you just order online or shop in your local store and it’s done.
• Cheaper? I’m not sure. I couldn’t say, because it depends on what kind of kibble/ cans would you buy VS what kind of ingredients you would use to cook for your dog. When we switched from dry food to homemade food, we found it to be cheaper. So, if the price is something that matters to you, take a moment to look at the numbers of your shopping bill to see which is more affordable to you.
• It’s dry. Kibble is overprocessed and removes all the good moisture. It could be a premium kibble, but it’s still dry. Our dog’s gastrointestinal system is not quite accustomed to this type of food and they digest it much harder.
• Supplements. You’ll probably need to give your dog vitamins and enzymes to complement their food and protect their digestive system. Please, check with your vet.
• Type of dry food. Read the label carefully and analyze the ingredients. The first 6-7 ingredients in kibble are the most important. Avoid foods that start listing their ingredients with something other than meat. And stay clear of the foods that don’t mention clearly what kind of meat is used, like “meat meal”, which could be anything. Look for “chicken”, “lamb”, “salmon”, etc.

We advise you to research more and make a conscious decision about your dog’s diet. It greatly influences their well-being!

 

5. DAYCARE/ DOG SITTING/ DOG WALKERS

• Dog Sitting

Right after food, good physical activity is essential to your pup.

To keep them healthy, dogs need daily exercise through walks and play. But, there are days when you just can’t make it in time to take your dog for a walk. The good news is that there are plenty of dog walkers. Ask your family and friends for recommendations or search online for one in your area. Your pup might have a great time, especially if there’s a pack with whom he can socialize and play. We’re familiar with the guilt of leaving your pup with someone else, but this one is a great solution.



Also, in the first couple of weeks, especially when you’re potty training them it’s important to have someone to take your pup out. In our case, one of us worked from home and we got it covered. But when it wasn’t possible, I would rush home, during my lunch break to check on Luna and take her out and then rush back to the office. If you know you’ll be at work all day without any chance of working remotely or your office is way too far from your house, maybe you could reach out to a dog sitter or take your pup to dog care during work hours.

Life can get chaotic and we don’t always manage to have the same schedule every day, but there are solutions to keeping your dog’s routine consistent.

• Choose a Vet & Check Medical Needs

We wish we could always be there for our dogs. And one way you could do that is to find a great veterinarian for your pup. Having a good specialist to look after your dog’s wellbeing from a medical perspective is a must.

But how do you find a good vet that you could completely trust? You could start from here.

• Ask for recommendations. I’m sure you have friends or family with dogs that can give you some names. It doesn’t mean that their vet is going to be a good match for you, but it’s a starting point for your search.
• See if the vet clinic is accredited with official organizations, such as the American Animal Hospital Association. It’s important to have them respect official guidelines and be monitored to see if they offer the best possible care to the pets visiting that clinic.
• Training and continuous training. How well trained is the vet? Does he/she have experience? Is the staff there interested in continuous education? Are they up-to-date with advances in the veterinary world? Answers to such questions will give you an idea on how well-trained the staff is and if your dog will get the best possible treatment.
• Opening hours & Emergencies. Look for clinics that match your needs. If the clinic is open 9:00-17:00 then it might not fit you if that’s your work hours as well. Also, ask how the clinic takes in emergency calls & visits. Will you get assistance anytime?
• Location. The best option would be to have your vet within walking distance or a 5-10 minute drive. For a regular check-up visit, you might not care if it’s a longer drive, but if it’s an emergency, say your dog got bitten, having it rather close it’s helpful. But, again, you’re aiming for the best care for your pet, so if it means having to drive 10 minutes more, maybe you could reconsider. Combined with all the other criteria, it should be rather easy to make your choice.
• Ask about the rates to make sure you can afford the services. Medical care is expensive, so check their payment options, plans, credit lines, etc.
• Common values over how to raise a healthy dog. Check the vet’s website and then pay a visit to better understand how they approach a dog’s well being. You might find that you’re on the same page, but if you disagree on most things during a conversation, say scolding your pup when she doesn’t make it to the pad, then maybe you could consider checking some other vets.
• Attitude (vet + staff). This is very subjective. Some people like to get straight to the point when going to the doctor, others like all the small talk. We all have different needs, especially when we’re anxious and nervous, and we all are in a clinic’s waiting room. But to be honest, friendly people can lighten up a tense room and that makes it easier for everyone to enjoy their time there. A clinic that cares about their patients will be polite and will know how to kindly manage all 100 questions of yours. Also, pay attention to how the vet treats your dog and how comfortable your pup feels with the vet. You’ll understand pretty quickly if your pup feels safe in the hands of the vet or other staff.

It’s only for you to decide which one of these criteria is more important to you and where you can compromise. Just make sure you are 100% confident in your choice, your pup will sense your nerves if you’re not sure about the vet. And once you’ve chosen one, don’t be afraid to ask questions, even 100 of them, your dog’s health comes first.

6. BEHAVIOR DECISIONS

Consistency is key. We can say enough how many times we have read and heard this phrase when reading about dogs. And now we’re paying it forward because it’s so so so true.
Decide early on what is acceptable for your dog to do around the house and outside and stick to it. Consistently.
Not being consistent with your dog translates to: “Oh, so you don’t really mean it, so I probably won’t do it or will do it next time.”
I’ll give you examples of some of the most common situations.

• Bed/ Couch

Let's say you don’t want your dog to sleep on your couch for your very personal reasons. Don’t skip any moment when you see your dog planning to or actually hopping on the couch. Let her know immediately and every single time, with no exception that it’s a no.

• Food Begging

Oh, dogs are just the best at this. I’ve recently found out that these “puppy eyes” are actually a survival trait dogs developed over time. So decide if you’ll throw your dog a little something when you’re cooking/ having dinner while she strategically lies down on your feet or.. not. Either way, stick to it.

• Pulling

If it’s important to you that your pup doesn’t pull during walks, then make sure you correct the behavior every single time. Otherwise, it’s confusing for the dog “am I allowed to jump after that squirrel or should I wait for the command?”. Dogs also test the limits, to see if there’s an opportunity to break the rule. Again, consistency is key.

• Grabbing your baby’s (stuffed) toys

Goldens, for example, have a soft point for stuffed animals, as Frenchies have for balls. You might be ok with your dog playing with your kids’ toys. But if you’re not, then set the limit from the very beginning and follow through. We kind of cave in and gave our Golden a stuffed animal, but now, our baby also has stuffed animals and Luna doesn’t make the difference between toys: “If it’s fluffy it’s mine.”

• Basic Tricks: sit/ wait/ drop it

I’ve heard a lot of dog owners say that their dog is untrainable. I’m sure there are all kinds of situations, but in most of them, we have trouble training them because we lack consistency. If you try training your dog 2 days in a row, have zero success and then drop it and you try again in a week and then drop it again because there’s very little progress, it’s hard to achieve that perfect “sit” that you’re aiming for.

Here consistency comes hand in hand with patience. Think of it this way, it’s a training session for you too. Is it easy to be consistent and patient? Can you achieve anything perfectly in 2 days? You see where I'm going. You’re both learning and dogs are so so smart. Have confidence and good treats, positive reinforcement works best!

Take it step by step with the preparations, shopping, and research. There’s a lot of ground to cover. Of course, it is, you’re making room in your home for a new family member.

That being said, take looots of pictures and videos and don’t forget to enjoy and just have fun with your pup!